Dorman 742-251 Power Window Lift Motor Compatible with Select Models

Fit and worked as expected.

Well, when I bought the motor for the driver's door of my Bronco I also got this one for my passenger's door or tailgate, whichever failed first. It ended up being the Tailgate. Installing it was a pain because the tailgate can be hard to work on if you don't remove the glass (I wasn't home and had nowhere to place the glass), and I actually had to cut part of the nylon webbing on the head of the motor in order to make it fit, which I might or not have avoided if I flipped it. Only 2 out of the 3 bolts lined up, the 3rd one would require some drilling, but it's doable. I added some pictures of the cuts as a guide for any other Bronco owners, so far it's been 7 months and I haven't had any problems with this. I also had to splice and join the connector for a cleaner install. After all was said and done I once again have a working tailgate glass, but this motor is a little smaller and less powerful than the OEM part, just don't fool too much with it and it will last, of course, since you already got in there, take the time to lube all the moving parts of the mechanism, and the rubber in the weather stripping. These little motors are durable, the one in my driver side door (see my review here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R2V2SM3LBGXKLS/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B000C11JSE ) already has almost 5 years in there and works great.As already stated, this one will work on some Fords or in my case, in my Bronco's passenger door or tailgate (with some mods), the one for your driver side window is this one: Dorman 742-250 Window Lift Motor

Works smooth in my 93 f150 passenger door window.

Installed left and right in a 1991 Bronco, this description should be good for at least ‘88-‘91.Side note, DO NOT USE THE KNOCKOFF FOR TAILGATE MOTOR. That install is hard enough in perfect conditions, splurge for the OEM or remanufactured OEM.As noted in other comments, the mount holes do not line up properly. Do NOT modify the door holes as you are more likely to mess with the gear alignment. The top and bottom holes line up perfectly, leaving the forward most hole off-allignment. If you do use this motor just leave the forward most hole empty. I reused the original screws as the supplied screws look significantly larger.To begin, get the window into the full up position and use a few long pieces of duct tape to tape from the inside to the outside over the door top to hold the window up. Remove the three screws 5/16”, the forward hole requires an open end wrench and a driver or extended socket for the other two. Reach your arm through either the square hole above the motor or remove the speaker and use that hole. Hold the motor in place before removing the third screw. After removing all screws, you might need to pry a little with a screw driver if it’s stuck to the door. Then work the motor out through the hole the cables go through.Select the correct Dorman cable, (I plugged in both ends) at least plug in the motor end, then work the new motor into the hole.Line up and start the top hole screw (hold the motor in place with your hand through either the square hole above the motor or the speaker hole) make sure the bottom hole is lined up. You probably need to bump the motor (quickly push the window button) to get the gears to line up. Once you’re confident the gears are lined up, tighten the two screws. After fully tight, remove the tape, bump the motor down to where you can see the rail.Now is a good time to clean the rail with a wire brush, rag, 409, ANYTHING, if you have grease then smear it on the rail. At the very least, spray the rail with PB Blaster or WD40, though grease will stay longer. While you’re in there squirt all other moving parts with some WD-40 or Blaster, then button the door back together.I don’t have the product number, but you can order a kit of plastic fasteners to replace all those broken, 30-year-old door panel fasteners. Now is a good time to do that...

Plug and play in a bronco. My original motor stop working because the inside turned into mush. I could have fixed it but I decided it was easier to try this one as it was cheap. This is the same motor sold by Bronco Graveyard and other suppliers.Positives- strongJust 2 negatives- the screws are threaded into plastic housing so before you install the motor, go ahead and thread it once while outside to cut the threads- the wire could have been just 1 inch longer. It was barely enough. I did not have to cut or splice anything though so thats a plus.

motor is weak, very weak, but it does get the job done, also the bolt pattern on the mount is different than on my 84 bronco, i had to drill a new hole in my OEM mechanism to get the PLASTIC mount screwed on.meanwhile, i am going to rebuild my old motor and use it again, i have about a dozen oem cores so i predict this will turn out well.